CHLORINE POOLS ONLY
Additional Information
BASIC CHEMICALS BALANCE WORK TOGETHER TO BALANCE YOUR POOL
*CHLORINE SHOCK look at the Highest Minimum Available Chlorine this amount is how much chlorine is in the 1 lb. bag. Chlorine shock kills algae. If it is not doing the job look at your CYANURIC ACID levels, and perform a separate Phosphate level test.
*CYANURIC ACID stabilizer or conditioner is what keeps the chlorine in the water when it is hot and sunny out. If levels are low it will cause the shock to be less effective.
*PH this is important low PH is a corrosive acid. Try to get pool water to HUMAN PH levels to keep your eyes from burning. Low PH levels are hard on pool heaters and will eat the copper heater bundle up. PH is stabilized by ALKALINITY. If too high use PH down. If too low use PH up or ALKALINITY.
*ALKALINITY stabilizes PH. When it is too low use alkalinity increaser. This will increase both PH and Alkalinity levels but you may have to lower your PH after 24 hours.
*ALGAECIDES are only a preventive to algae growth to be used on a weekly basis of a couple of ounces each week or after it rains. CHLORINE KILLS ALGAE
*CHLORINE TABLETS are used to constantly add chlorine in the pool while pool pump is running. Pool Heaters need an automatic chlorinator on the outgoing line to the pool returns. Tablets in the skimmer will void warranties on Heaters because it is corrosive. AUTOMATIC CHLORINATORS RECOMMENDED
*TEST STRIPS are pretty accurate, but they do not read chlorine levels as well as Liquid Test Kit. *LIQUID TEST KIT best for testing Chlorine and PH levels because of eye discomfort it is most accurate.
*SALT POOLS chlorine generators do lots of damage to metals in different areas of the pool. Handrails and Ladders made of stainless steel will rust. Use of a grounded ZINC ANODE will help a lot on older pools but not a cure.
*ZINC ANODE discharges the small amount of voltage made by chlorine generator. This lengthens life of Pool Light Nitch, Pool Pump Motors, Ladders, Handrails and Heaters. THIS IS A MUST HAVE
*Once pool has been balanced it should be easy to keep up with on a weekly basis. Check water chemistry of pool after each backwash. If you use your pool on the weekends consider doing your weekly pool work on Thursday evenings. This will allow chemicals to evenly distribute before weekend enjoyment.
*Pool pump motors are designed to run 24 hours. This water flow helps keep algae from forming.
*Always add chemicals after vacuuming or backwashing your pool.
*After pool is clean you can vacuum pool on filter as long as you backwash when you are done.
GREEN SWIMMING POOLS
POOL WATER MUST BE TESTED FOR PHOSPHATES
POOL WATER MUST BE TESTED FOR CYNURIC ACID LEVELS
YELLOW MUSTARD ALGAE
If algae is suspended in water (green tint) throughout entire pool. Algae settling on steps in the grove patterns (greenish, yellowish, and hint of brown) take finger and slowly see if it smears across steps like you can write your name in it.
NO AMOUNT OF CHLORINE WILL KILL IT
Solution : Azure Yellow Mustard Algae Remover With Poles , Brushes ,Vacuum Hose, Automatic Cleaner, & Toys In Pool. Keep Higher Chlorine Levels For 2 Weeks
GREEN ALGAE
If algae is growing in patches around pool, in corners, on ladder treads and water is still clear until you brush it. You have Green Algae
CHLORINE WILL KILL IT
Solution: Shock Pool and add Azure Algae 60 (Less Likely To Foam) Algae 50, 30, & 10 (Likely To Foam)
BLACK ALGAE
Forms in concrete pools can truly never get rid of because it's like a Jelly Fish. You can scrape the head off, but tentacles imbedded in the plaster or gunite will grow back.
Solution: Keep chlorine at higher levels at all times, and use Azure 90 Day Algaecide
All Brands Of 90 Day Algaecide Cannot Be Used In Salt Water Pools It Damages The Cell
